Notes on Siam Reap

Notes on Siam Reap

1. Only take MEKONG EXPRESS BUS
2. Paramount bus is dodgy, AVOID!
3. Stay in Siam Rep Rooms. Owner is a Canadian couple, ask Melissa to book a tuk2 for you (25per tuk tuk for half the mini corcuit, 1 tuk2 fits 4. She’ll explain the rates and routes)
4. Do angkor at sunrise, leave at 4.45, grab a good spot by the lake.
5. Do Banteay Srei 35k away from main complex, it’s a 45min relaxing tuktuk ride and you’ll get to see the country side (add 3usd for tuk2)
6. Do Tonlesap 70k away from main complex (add 5usd)
7. Stay at least 3 days in Siamrep (excluding travel time) to experience all the temples and the floating village
8. End of January was a good time, not too hot..not raining
9. Pub street is sleazy
10. Buy angkor tshirt, 3 for 5usd, bargain nicely. Smile, ur in southeastasia.
11. Amok is delicious, like thai curry
12. Mekong Express HCM-SR, SR-HCM daily 7.30am arrive 8pm20120320-184458.jpg20120320-184704.jpg

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Of Course God Doesn’t Want Us to Get Along

Why would He want us to get along?

First of all, He wants some –who have divine rights- to occupy a certain territory, kick out everyone who’s already living there. By any means necessary; walls, barbed wires, genocide, basic rights deprivation, economic embargo, eviction.

Secondly, He wants us to denounce our fellow human beings who differ from us as infidels. To condemn different views harshly and leave no room for discussion.

Thirdly, He obviously dislikes the building of worshipping places. What about that mosque in New York God? NO, says He. That new church in Indonesia? NO. Burn them all, says He. Or so say those guys who swear by His name.

Heck God doesn’t even want men and women get along. Women can’t drive, can’t vote, can’t appear on TV and should accept that they’re 2nd class citizens.

We spent our lives making sure that we’ll end up in heaven, by hitting each other in the face, spit, curse, shoot, deride each other. By being suspicious, prejudiced and resentful.

Judaism, Christianity and Islam, rooted from Abraham’s teachings and from the same God that Abraham worshiped, yet their followers feel it necessary to live inharmoniously with each other. By God, let us be pebbles in each others’ shoes.

From these hostile followers, it appears to me that God created religion -a set of values governing our lives; our relationship with Him, with mankind and with our environment- to make sure that we spend our resources fighting each other.

Exhibit A:
http://www.economist.com/node/21538667

But what of tolerance?
http://www.suhaibwebb.com/personaldvlpt/character/the-statute-of-tolerance-in-islam/

And what of believing our better nature. What of considering perhaps God wants us to work together despite the veil, the yarmulk, the turban and the kafiyeh? To be good business partners, neighbors and share a parking space.

http://www.suhaibwebb.com/islam-studies/the-trouble-with-rage/

Of Migration

There’s an interesting debate going on in The Economist, on Europe and immigration. Reminds me of my almost famous *and most importantly, almost Paris!:(* essay who was placed among the mediocrity of a group called best 22. Though I must admit it has a nicer ring to it when added -out of 2000 papers submitted-. Quirky but nice. Anyway, it made me quite happy that I couldn’t function properly that day when the announcement came out.

Of course, right after submitting the paper I planned a thank you speech..you know.. in case I did get to be on stage *had started to think about what dress I’m gonna wear and that it might be best to start rehearsing the speech in front of a mirror*. It would have been my almost Oscar moment, in which I’d be thanking my parents, Paris, and Ratman: a friend and a constant reminder of perseverance and the joy of life, in whatever condition.

Here’s the paper

 An Enlightened Generation – Isya Hanum Kresnadi
*The instruction from the 2011 Worldbank Essay Competition was to write something on youth migration

Rewind

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Things that Make Me Say “Would you be my husband?”

3. If you’d cook for us

2. If the dowry is a massage chair

And

1….

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If you’re planning to travel the Silk Road, and would like to take me with you.

So be forewarned…

But anyways, checkout http://avgustin.net/gallery.php

Pace

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Tide, current, wind

Nature has its own pace
and we’re too insignificant
to force upon it,
our own

Bromo, Jangan Meletus Dulu

There are really two things you can expect out of a really famous tourist site. One, is that it’s overrated or two –when you’re lucky- is tthat it’s in fact truly awesome. Bromo, without a doubt is the latter. The landscape captures Indonesia’s volcanic nature. For us who live in the city, it is a reminder that we do actually sit on the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Bromo is not the highest, nor the biggest volcanic mountain in Indonesia, but to further describe to you its landscape (the national park is called Bromo Tengger Semeru ), I’ll have to restrain myself from using too many ‘awesome’ or ‘amazing’. Bromo sits in the center of a vast sand sea. Black-grey sand, which says that it came from an old eruption. Underneath the sand sea is an active magma chamber, so when you’re barefoot you can feel how warm the sand is. If you look at Bromo at a distance, from Mount Pananjakan, there in the midst of the sea of sand sits three mountains. Next to Bromo is a mossy brilliant green mountain called Batok and in the background stands the enormous Mount Semeru, occasionally coughing out fumes, like an amateur smoker.

At dawn in the National Park it gets to about 4 degree Celcius. When the cool night air in the mountains meets the warm sand it turns into mist, trapped, hovering above the sand. So if you’re standing on the mountain across Bromo, where you hike at 3.30am to watch the sunrise, the sea of sand that’s now below you becomes completely invisible! Which makes Bromo and the other two mountains across you, appear as if they’re floating in the mist. When the wind sweeps over, the mist will sway a little. Almost the same effect as when you’re tilting a bowl of dry ice.. left and right.

Approaching sunrise you see color changes in the sky, and on the mountains. At 4am the three look similar, bluish black. Then it changes as soon as the first ray of sunlight hits them, all to a different shade. Semeru and Bromo slowly becomes orangey and Batok to a lush green.

After sunrise, go down to the sand sea. As the mist still lingers on the sand sea at that time of the day, you’ll be immersed in the mist like you can almost touch them..the sensation is pretty unearthly. Hike the stairs that lead to the crater of Bromo. It’s a steep one that’ll make your breath run ahead of you. Me, I was close to fainting. Hey hiking is so not my sport. After paying a visit to the crater, walk 2km to the savana (you can hop on the 4WD if you’re in a rush, but try walking if you have time).

Getting There:

Bromo is in East Java. Java is the most populated island in Indonesia. Major airports closest to Bromo would be in Surabaya, Malang or Bali. As I was from a diving trip in Bali, I flew Jakarta-Bali-Surabaya. I didn’t choose to depart from Malang because I heard the route is less safe.
1. Comfortable style
So get a flight to Surabaya (20-30USD from Jakarta or Bali), rent a car with a driver at the airport (30-40USD per day without gas). It’s a 4 hour drive, the second half of it is uphill and scenic.
2. Local style
Naik Patas AC Surabaya-Probolinggo (30ribuan), terus naik Elf Probolinggo-cemoro lawang (15ribuan). Gue ngga jadi naik ini gara2 ditakut-takutin om gue. Menurut dia, di stasiun itu “serem banyak rampok, orang jahat2”. Padahal nggak kok. Pasangan indo-bule yang gue temui di hostel ternyata memakai rute ini. Yah tapi golden rules macam pakaian ga mencolok dan jagain your belongings tetap berlaku sih.
Route
Bali-Surabaya-Probolinggo-Cemoro Lawang (spend a night) – Bromo
Bali-Bromo 45minutes flight. I took Lion Air Rp.300.000 (USD 30ish)
Surabaya – Probolinggo, 97km. By car, I had the car for free and we had a local driver.
Probolinggo – Sukapura – Ngadisari – Cemoro Lawang, 45 km (hike and sharp turns)
Season
I went at the end of August 2009, the best time to go is April-October (dry season, wet and shoulder season is not recommended. Because shoulder season can get pretty bad in Indonesia).
Stay
Yoschi hostel for value. Cheapest room is Spartan, next cheapest is ok. The complex of the hostel is nice Balinese style. Staff was really helpful. They can help you arrange your travel if you don’t have a clue about what you’re doing. Take their sunrise tour, Rp.90.000. This is a great deal, considering you don’t have to haggle with jeep drivers (have to rent a 4WD to cross the sand sea), specially if you’re foreign you sure gonna get a crazy price (although you might not have realized it). Sunrise Tour takes you from hostel-Penanjakan with a 4WD to watch first light hit Bromo, and then down to the sand sea where they drop you off so you can walk across sea sand to Bromo and up the stairs to the crater of Bromo. After you’re done with Bromo crater, ask the driver to take you to the Savannah (for an extra Rp.20.000 each). A must go to. After you’ve explored the savannah (more like lounge around and admire the scene, it’s awesome because there’s no crowd here! If you’re lucky like I was, you’ll be the only one in the scenic savannah), the 4WD will take you back to the hostel.

After Bromo I recommend you do Madakaripura waterfall and Kawah Ijen trip. The waterfall was grand. 6 waterfalls inside a complex. The walls are lush tropical green. I didn’t do Kawah Ijen though because I didn’t have enough time. If you don’t have a car or travelling alone, I suggest you book a group tour with the hostel several days ahead.

Love Letters: Gotta Love em

As I was rummaging through the drawers of my study desk this evening, I bumped into memory. Yes, memory was sitting inside an orange shoe box all along and tonight it was impatiently tapping its foot, eager to jump out and startle me. In an honestly good way.

Memory contains birthday cards, pictures, pen pal letters, congratulation cards, angry letters (designated to: Mom) demanding more punctual pick ups, and providing very logical and indisputable arguments why curfew should be midnight instead of 11pm. Teen angst, if it had persisted I might have been a great lawyer. Among all those cards, notes and letters, the cutest ones are of course the love letters.

The first one, was from high school. From a guy I barely talked to. We were in the same class at a language course for a year but never actually conversed, other than the possibly occasional, pen borrowing, and maybe group work. For the sake of story-telling, lets call him tall and quiet. As our language course is ending, we said our goodbyes and I was told he’s flying to Amsterdam to study music. After that I’ve never heard from him. One night, the doorbell rang. I opened it to find tall and quiet’s friend, carrying roses, a cassette tape (yes it was the year 2001), and a letter. ‘Umm, this is from tall and quiet’ he said,

I was honestly confused. But whose cheeks would not be blushed by a rose and a letter? So I took it. This was what tall and quiet wrote:

I will be on the plane when you read this. So sorry I couldn’t give it personally. I had to leave sooner than I expected. *how tragic is that?*

You might be surprised, but I really like you a lot. I think I might even love you. I didn’t know when it started. It may be yesterday, a couple of months ago, or the first time I met you. *how sweet is that?*

On it goes, and ended with: thank you for the memories, I love you.

Inside the tape, a recording of tall and quiet singing along with his guitar. The song was an acoustic version of Balonku Ada Lima. Might be the most creative present I’ve ever received.

What’s been bugging me after re-reading the letter is, what my response was to this letter. I remember sending tall and quiet an email, but what did it say? Did it convey a proper thank you, and that I really liked the song?  Oh God I hope it did, but the only thing I remember was writing ‘I like you as a friend, so I guess we can be friends’.

Girls girls…have you ever imagined how tough it is for a boy to confess their feelings? The anxiety that comes with saying I love you probably equals the anxiety of a pregnancy scare, especially for teenage boys what with their sweaty palms, funny hair, skin problems and shaky confidence. So girls girls…next time you’re given a love letter, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, take it! And please say a proper thank you. And if you’re kind enough, reject politely if you must. Try to avoid hurtful expressions.

So tall and quiet, let this post be my proper thank you. Because I’m sure, it took a lot of guts for a quite teenage boy who never talked to his love interest, to get up in front of a mike, press record, sing,  write a confession -albeit not handing it in person, and leaving-. Here it goes…

Dear Tall and quiet,

How’s Amsterdam? I hope you’re settling in just fine. I wanted to say thank you for the rose, and the tape. Rose was beautiful and I really liked your acoustic version of Balonku ada Lima. It looks to me that your choice to study music will be perfect for your talent. Regarding the letter, I should say that I didn’t see it coming but flattered none the less. But I must say, that I can only offer my friendship as that is what my feeling towards you is.

All and all, thank you for the package, and  Good luck in college.

Cheers?


Terperangkap!

Amores Perros, menurut my spanish speaking friend, artinya: fucking love. Do you know how some relationships are like semakin pedih semakin nagih?Atau semakin sakit jiwa semakin ngga bisa lepas? Untungnya gue bukan tipe yang begini, dan gue selalu nggak habis pikir sama orang-orang yang ngejalaninnya. Namun demikian, hubungan semacam inilah yang gue alami dengan Indonesia. Semakin ribet negeri ini, semakin pedih rasanya hati gue, tapi semakin cinta. Sedikit masochistic. Dulu gue pernah baca artikel tentang Sydney Jones sesaat setelah dia ditendang dari Indonesia, on answering how she felt about Indonesia she said ‘hati saya terperangkap di Indonesia’. Setelah pulang dari rantau, gue baru mengerti kenapa Sydney Jones bisa ngomong gitu.

Macet, rampok, vandalism, polusi, preman, sogok, suap, korup, males, miskin, bodoh, panas, lembab, kotor, bau, extrimis. Sebut sejuta hal jelek lagi juga masih bisa. Seringkali kita lupa yang baik-baiknya. Seringkali kita nggak fair menjudge bangsa sendiri sehingga kita benci dan frustrasi. Seringkali kita lupa (or worse: nggak tau) bahwa semua masalah tersebut di atas, bukan cuma problem Indonesia kok. Kita bukan spesialis yang jelek-jelek. Mostly masalah-masalah tersebut dihadapi juga oleh negara-negara berkembang all over the world.

Macetnya Jakarta, semua kota besar dunia juga macet..you name it New York, Sydney, Bogota, Sao Paolo. Chaos di jalanan, di India orang nyetir mobil spionnya ditekuk. Rampok, tindak kriminal, bukan kita kok bangsa paling bejat di dunia. Liat deh rebels Sierra Lione yang nyulik anak-anak pitik untuk dijadiin tentara. Polusi, Australia adalah carbon contributor tertinggi di dunia (per kapita). Korup, Philippines, US jaman mafia-mafia. Extrimis, berapa persen sih dari kita yang extrimis? Indonesia adalah Negara dengan penduduk muslim terbesar, tapi demokratis nggak kayak Emirates, moderat nggak seperti Iran yang pernah memaksa semua wanitanya berjilbab, atau Afghanistan dengan burqa nya. Panas, well…if we’ve lived in Norway where it can reach minus 41 Celcius, I think we’ll appreciate the heat and humidity more. Miskin, ketimpangan pendapatan, pada umumnya sering dijumpai di developing countries memang. Bukan kita sendirian aja yang lagi ribet. Meski rada miskin, tapi liat our progress: post US mortgage crisis, and world trade decline, hanya Cina, Australia dan Indonesia yang pertumbuhan ekonominya positif.

What I’m trying to say is, yes we have heaps –if not infinite- problems, but hey..every country has problems. Ini kenapa studi komparatif, dan keluar dari tempurung (eg. merantau, talk to people, baca )  menjadi sangat penting. Setelah merantau, gue merasa lebih bisa menerima dan mengkritik dengan lebih fair. For example I can say, yes kitasuka bodoh karena…. Yes kita korup karena…. Yes kita kepo karena… Yes kita suka nggak pede karena…Yes keluarga besar kita ikut campur menentukan kita sekolah di mana dan kawin sama siapa. Selain itu,  gue juga jadi mensyukuri things that I’ve been taking for granted di Indonesia: Alhamdulillah Negara nggak maksa gue make burqa…Alhamdulillah kakak gue boleh pake jilbab di tempat umum…Alhamdulillah gue bisa akses youtube… Alhamdulillah di SMA meski tawuran kaga ada random shooting kayak di Columbine High… Alhamdulillah Negara ini nggak obesitas karena makannya nasi sama tempe sama lalap… Alhamdulillah nanti kayaknya gue ngga akan dibuang ke panti jompo sama anak gue…Alhamdulillah SBY bukan Chavez. Kata-kata Margaret Mead di bawah ini gue rasa melukiskan perasaan gue, hence it has been my favorite quote for a while now:

As the traveler who has once been from home is wiser than he who has never left his own doorstep, so a knowledge of one other culture should sharpen our ability to scrutinize more steadily, to appreciate more lovingly, our own (Margaret Mead, anthropologist 1901-1978).

What I’m also trying to say is, yes we have heaps of problems, but they’re not impossible to solve and we are capable of change. If we look at Eropa, Amerika…mereka yang sudah lebih lama merdeka (kemudian menjajah kita, terimakasih) juga pernah melewati malaise kok, masa-masa kegelapan dan kebodohan, krisis ekonomi, penegak hukum korup. Tapi bisa kan mereka keluar dari itu semua menjadi bangsa yang lebih baik?

Setelah 17 Agustus tahun ini, semoga bangsa ini bisa lebih fair in judging itself supaya lebih optimis dan gak suicidal. Scrutinize more objectively, jangan lagi kayak Megawati noh, yang Cuma bisa nyela-nyela pake pernyataan retoris ‘Bangsa ini makin hannnnncuRRR’ ‘Rakyat ditipu teruSSS’ atau ‘Pidato SBY dataRRR’.

Semoga bisa lebih menghargai hal-hal indah tentang Indonesia yang kita take for granted selama ini. Bukan berarti kita nerima aja keadaan yg belom ideal ini tanpa berusaha untuk berubah. ‘It may be necessary to temporarily accept a lesser evil, but one must never label a necessary evil as good’ kata missus Mead lagi. Sekarang emang Korup, tapi kita bisa kan ngga nyogok kedepannya? Sekarang emang kotor, tapi kita bisa kan nggak buang sampah sembarangan lagi? Sekarang emang kita ribut soal gereja seperti warga New York ribut soal mesjid, tapi di masa depan bisa kan kita saling bilang ‘build that church!’ atau ‘build that mosque!’.

Kata Goenawan Mohammad di tweetnya pagi ini, ‘tanah air itu adalah takdir dan tugas sejarah kita’. Mau nggak mau, suka nggak suka…kita mesti ikutan membuatnya lebih baik. Memang medan ekstrim luarr biasa, tapi semoga kita bisa belajar dari gigihnya pejuang-pejuang kemerdekaan, yang melawan selama 3.5 abad. Bayangin kalo di Abad ke 2.5 mereka nyerah.

Post-power Pre-power Syndrome

Post-Power Pre-Power Syndrome

If there were ever such a thing, I think I’m suffering from it. Signs:

  1. Restless
  2. Constantly on the edge of throwing a tantrum
  3. Occasional brooding
  4. Dropping level of confidence

I’m beginning to have serious doubts about my decision to go home instead of staying back.

Now that I’m home, I’m jobless. Being unproductive for 2 months, my brain is dying. Unemployment has slowly, yet significantly been nibbling away the grey cells in my brain..I can hear it at night, shriveling, shrieking, and then..gone. Mood? Pfft, on constant PMS mood.

The amount of energy a 24 year old posses, if not channeled, is a potential hazard to herself and her social circle. This may cause tantrums, and even *gasp* vandalism.

Lost of confidence due to being unproductive and the feeling of being unwanted, may cause serious broodings that can even lead to *gasp* identity crisis.

Anyway, all this time I’ve been saying to myself..’Don’t be afraid to make a decision, at this age you can afford a mistake’… Now I’m not so sure..I’m losing time..and not feeling good about it.

Also ‘Don’t be afraid to go for what you want ‘..Now I’m shit scared and thinking of throwing the towel,  give in to the game..and work…in a bank. For 15 years. Building a career. 12 days off in a year. Blahhh.

But yeeeaa…NO :p

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